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Rock Chips, Scratches, And Paw Prints, Originally uploaded by beetle67
We have all had them at one time or another… rock chips and the inevitable rust that comes with them. Although technically, with cars becoming made less and less of metal these days it is not as big of a problem as it used to be, but it still does happen. It is always best to take care of these little blemishes before the harshest part of winter sets in because the chemicals spread on the roads during harsh weather will only accelerate any possibility of rust forming and leave a bigger mess to deal with come next spring.

It is actually quite easy to fix rock chips and scratches. It takes only a few minutes of your time and will involve little cost and product to get the job done right. Here is a list of a few of the basic tools of the trade:

• Zinc Oxide or equivalent rust transformer
• Toothbrush
• Toothpaste
• Book of paper matches
• Matching lacquer or enamel paint (found at dealer or auto part store)
• Clear top coat (optional)
• 1000-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
• Polishing compound

Step 1- The first thing to do is to inspect the chip and determine if any rust has set in. If the answer is “no” you can move onto step 2. If “yes”, we are going to need to remove it, otherwise any paint you apply will not last and eventually will bubble and fall out leaving most likely even more rust to deal with. You could sand it all down, but the absolute easiest method for the laymen is to purchase a bottle of zinc oxide or rust transforming spray, such as Dupli Color Rust Fix. This will transform the rust into a primer coating that will not only resist further rusting, but will present a good base coat for the color coat (paint) to stick. Be sure to concentrate the solution on only the rusted are, in case the solution might have a reaction with the rest of the paint. It is always best to be safe, even if the product claims that it will not hurt your existing paint. Allow this to fully dry and then move on to step 2.

Step 2- The next thing is going to be to fully clean the area to ensure the paint has the best conditions to stick and last. There are a number of commercial concoctions, but one of the favorites among professionals has always been a soft toothbrush and toothpaste. This will act as a gentle sandpaper to remove any traces of wax and dirt around the nooks and crannies of the chip or scratch. When finished lightly scrubbing the area, wash it with clean water and let dry.

Step 3- Now is the fun part. Take the color coat you had purchased at either your dealer or auto part store, and begin to apply it into the damaged area using the base end of a paper matchstick. The key to this is to allow the paint to flow into the area and then let dry before applying a second coat. The reason we are using the matchstick is to discourage the possibility of brush strokes. We are trying to match the original look as closely as possible. It make take several cycles of paint and dry, but your goal is to fill the chip up to the level of the original paint of the vehicle, if not a bit over. If you are in a hurry and are happy with the basic fix we have just described, you can let it dry for 3-5 days and then rub rubbing compound over the area to help blend the fix and call it done. If you are a bit more of a perfectionist, move onto step 4.

Tip: Lacquer touch-up paint is generally the safest to apply unless the vehicle has been re-painted with a lacquer finish. The reason lacquer is easier for a non-professional, is it drys quicker and it easy to remove from enamel with a damp towel should you make a mistake. Enamel takes longer to dry, is harder to wipe off, and it may have a reaction with your current enamel finish and leave a mark if you should spill on the original paint. Most auto stores carry lacquer touch-up, but your dealer may have supplied you with the original enamel finish. It will be good to know what you are working with so you know how careful you are going to need to be.

Step 4- Once the paint is reasonably dry (3-5 days), take a square of 1000 to 2000 wet/dry sandpaper and lightly sand the area until it blends with the surrounding paint. You are looking to achieve a uniform dull appearance. As you begin to sand you will notice that the high areas with dull first and the lower spots will stay glossy until it is well blended. If necessary you may need to add another coat of paint in order to get a good overall finish and “height” to the touch-up area. DO NOT over sand. The last thing you want to do is remove too much of the original paint and end up with an even larger spot on your car. If you gage how much paint you are removing and concentrate the brunt of the sanding on the damaged area you should have no problem with this step. This would be a good time to add clear coat to your damaged area if you would like.

Tip: Oftentimes you will find that clear coat is quite unnecessary and sometimes even makes it harder to properly blend the painted area once finished.

Step 5- Once the section is smooth and flat, you are going to want to further blend the are a and return a high gloss to the paint via a quality rubbing compound, such as 3M’s. The compound is set-up to start out with a light abrasive and then will gradually break down to a fine polish that will create a high gloss shine. Be patient with this step… the more you rub the higher the gloss on the paint will get. Continue with this until you are satisfied with the fix and the gloss blends in with the rest of the finish.

In a month or so you may want to apply a good wax to help protect your finish (3M wax in always a good choice). This may also help to further blend the area if you have a wax coating on the rest of the vehicle.

Happy “rust-free” winter motoring!